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Monday, December 20, 2010
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Effective Housetraining
The keys to successful housetraining are confinement and supervision. Set up and implement a consistent structure with these components:
Most fold-up, wire crates are sold with a divider. You can use it to shrink your dog's space and discourage crate elimination. Avoid bedding in the crate for a time, as it could serve to absorb urine.
Vigilance is essential. You must watch your dog constantly while he's unconfined. Each accident in the house is a lost opportunity and a step backward in the training program. You are developing your dog's preference for toileting outside. If your dog has an accident, do not shove his nose in the pile or puddle. This outdated tactic is an aversive that teaches your dog nothing...except to mistrust you.
You must take your dog on her potty trips on the leash. Otherwise, you may not see whether she eliminates, and you're certainly in no position to reinforce (reward) promptly.
Reinforce outdoor elimination with a high-value food reward, e.g. chicken, cheese, or hot dog. Elimination is a self-gratifying behavior: the dog feels relief. Your dog will learn that "going" outside works to get him a wonderful treat.
Teach your dog a cue word or phrase, such as "hurry up" or "do your business". She will learn to associate that cue with eliminating and earning a food reward.
Housetraining is easier with a set feeding and watering schedule. (Refer to the blog article, "Free Feeding Your Dog? Don't Do It.") Free access to food and water makes it nearly impossible to control "output". Puppies normally require 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight.
You can designate a small area on or near your property as a "potty place". Your dog associates this area with a bathroom trip, and you have a manageable clean-up job.
Successful housetraining requires a concentrated effort. Dogs learn at different rates and respond best to a calm, patient, and unemotional demeanor. Housetraining time varies depending upon your dog, his history, and your approach to the training. If you're observant, you'll begin to recognize your dog's signals. Pacing, sniffing a particular spot, and circling are all pre-elimination indicators.
If your housetraining plan isn't working, check with your vet. He/she can determine whether a health problem exists which could prevent success.
For further information, contact:
Kimberly B. Mandel
CPDT-KA
908.822.9200
- Use a crate, small pen, or small confined area in your home;
- Exercise constant vigilance, be observant;
- Resign to taking your dog out - leashed;
- Reinforce correct elimination with high-value food;
- Use a verbal cue that your dog learns to associate with elimination;
- Adhere to set feeding/watering times;
- Choose a specific outdoor "potty place", and;
- Be patient.
Most fold-up, wire crates are sold with a divider. You can use it to shrink your dog's space and discourage crate elimination. Avoid bedding in the crate for a time, as it could serve to absorb urine.
Vigilance is essential. You must watch your dog constantly while he's unconfined. Each accident in the house is a lost opportunity and a step backward in the training program. You are developing your dog's preference for toileting outside. If your dog has an accident, do not shove his nose in the pile or puddle. This outdated tactic is an aversive that teaches your dog nothing...except to mistrust you.
You must take your dog on her potty trips on the leash. Otherwise, you may not see whether she eliminates, and you're certainly in no position to reinforce (reward) promptly.
Reinforce outdoor elimination with a high-value food reward, e.g. chicken, cheese, or hot dog. Elimination is a self-gratifying behavior: the dog feels relief. Your dog will learn that "going" outside works to get him a wonderful treat.
Teach your dog a cue word or phrase, such as "hurry up" or "do your business". She will learn to associate that cue with eliminating and earning a food reward.
Housetraining is easier with a set feeding and watering schedule. (Refer to the blog article, "Free Feeding Your Dog? Don't Do It.") Free access to food and water makes it nearly impossible to control "output". Puppies normally require 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight.
You can designate a small area on or near your property as a "potty place". Your dog associates this area with a bathroom trip, and you have a manageable clean-up job.
Successful housetraining requires a concentrated effort. Dogs learn at different rates and respond best to a calm, patient, and unemotional demeanor. Housetraining time varies depending upon your dog, his history, and your approach to the training. If you're observant, you'll begin to recognize your dog's signals. Pacing, sniffing a particular spot, and circling are all pre-elimination indicators.
If your housetraining plan isn't working, check with your vet. He/she can determine whether a health problem exists which could prevent success.
For further information, contact:
Kimberly B. Mandel
CPDT-KA
908.822.9200
Saturday, October 16, 2010
How To Improve Leash Walking
Autumn can provide a beautiful backdrop for hiking: changing foliage, cool, fresh air, and exercise for you and your four-legged friend. You can increase the enjoyment by teaching your dog leash manners.
Many dogs pull on leash. The outdoor environment is highly stimulating. It's easy for your dog to "forget" his human at the other end of the leash. So many scents, so little time.... Dogs do what works for them. If you allow yourself to "go along for the ride" when your dog is pulling on the leash, you are reinforcing his poor leash manners. Remember that reinforcement makes any behavior stronger. Here are several changes you can make to eliminate your dog's pulling...and spare yourself possible injury!
ASSESS YOUR EQUIPMENT
Use a six-foot nylon or leather leash. A retractable, e.g. Flexi, leash is great for practicing distance stay and recall exercises, but not for teaching loose leash walking. It's easy for your dog to ignore you when she's 16 feet ahead! A six-foot leash allows easier control and reinforcement of your dog's position.
A walking harness may be helpful. A harness with the D-ring leash latch on the chest works best for strong pullers. (I like Premier's Easy Walk Harness.) It's discouraging for your dog to pull out in front when the leash is attached at his chest.
TAKE CHARGE OF THE WALK
Too much freedom is not good for a young or untrained dog. Keep the leash short: 12 inches for a large dog and 18-24 inches for a small dog. Do not give your dog the option of yanking you hither and yon. A short leash sends a clear message of your control.
REINFORCE ATTENTION AND LOOSE LEASH WALKING
Be prepared to reinforce nice walking with high-value food, e.g. your dog's favorite treats or a bite of chicken or hot dog. Remember that you are competing with the outdoor environment for your dog's attention! Have something compelling in your pocket. When your dog is walking nicely, give him a food reward. He'll learn that walking near you is worth his while. During your walk, interrupt him by saying his name. When he looks at you, give him a food reward. Your dog will learn to be attentive to you.
Your dog may pull even on a short leash. (After all, pulling has worked in the past.) No need to jerk the leash, simply, stand still. Stop walking and plant yourself. After a few moments, your dog will look at you and/or slacken the leash. Good dog! The walk continues. It's the continuation of movement that reinforces attention and a loose leash. Loose leash walking works instead of pulling.
Perhaps your dog has had many months to practice pulling on leash. Change doesn't happen overnight. With diligence, you can transform your walks into a more enjoyable experience!
Kimberly B. Mandel
CPDT-KA
908.822.9200
Many dogs pull on leash. The outdoor environment is highly stimulating. It's easy for your dog to "forget" his human at the other end of the leash. So many scents, so little time.... Dogs do what works for them. If you allow yourself to "go along for the ride" when your dog is pulling on the leash, you are reinforcing his poor leash manners. Remember that reinforcement makes any behavior stronger. Here are several changes you can make to eliminate your dog's pulling...and spare yourself possible injury!
ASSESS YOUR EQUIPMENT
Use a six-foot nylon or leather leash. A retractable, e.g. Flexi, leash is great for practicing distance stay and recall exercises, but not for teaching loose leash walking. It's easy for your dog to ignore you when she's 16 feet ahead! A six-foot leash allows easier control and reinforcement of your dog's position.
A walking harness may be helpful. A harness with the D-ring leash latch on the chest works best for strong pullers. (I like Premier's Easy Walk Harness.) It's discouraging for your dog to pull out in front when the leash is attached at his chest.
TAKE CHARGE OF THE WALK
Too much freedom is not good for a young or untrained dog. Keep the leash short: 12 inches for a large dog and 18-24 inches for a small dog. Do not give your dog the option of yanking you hither and yon. A short leash sends a clear message of your control.
REINFORCE ATTENTION AND LOOSE LEASH WALKING
Be prepared to reinforce nice walking with high-value food, e.g. your dog's favorite treats or a bite of chicken or hot dog. Remember that you are competing with the outdoor environment for your dog's attention! Have something compelling in your pocket. When your dog is walking nicely, give him a food reward. He'll learn that walking near you is worth his while. During your walk, interrupt him by saying his name. When he looks at you, give him a food reward. Your dog will learn to be attentive to you.
Your dog may pull even on a short leash. (After all, pulling has worked in the past.) No need to jerk the leash, simply, stand still. Stop walking and plant yourself. After a few moments, your dog will look at you and/or slacken the leash. Good dog! The walk continues. It's the continuation of movement that reinforces attention and a loose leash. Loose leash walking works instead of pulling.
Perhaps your dog has had many months to practice pulling on leash. Change doesn't happen overnight. With diligence, you can transform your walks into a more enjoyable experience!
Kimberly B. Mandel
CPDT-KA
908.822.9200
Friday, October 8, 2010
Hope For A Home Adopt-A-Thon
If you are looking for a new "Best Friend" come to our Hope For Home adoption event on Saturday October 9th from noon to 4pm. It is on site at our location, Route 22 West North Plainfield, NJ. There will be lots of great adoptable dogs from the Newark Area Humane Society.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Set Up For Success: Dog Behavior Management, Leadership, and Training
A new puppy or adult dog in the home means more demands on everyone, but there are ways to manage your addition for long-term harmony. Behavior management and leadership can be achieved through knowledge and basic training. Information applies to dogs of all ages. This is a complimentary session.
On Saturday, October 16th from 10 -11 AM stop by for coffee, muffins, and practical information about canine behavior. Our trainer, Kimberly Mandel, will offer ways to facilitate your new dog's home transition or to resolve behavior problems. All questions are welcome. This event will be held at Best Friends Pet Care located at 825 Route 22 West in North Plainfield, NJ. Humans only this time, please. Call for more details: 908.822.9200
On Saturday, October 16th from 10 -11 AM stop by for coffee, muffins, and practical information about canine behavior. Our trainer, Kimberly Mandel, will offer ways to facilitate your new dog's home transition or to resolve behavior problems. All questions are welcome. This event will be held at Best Friends Pet Care located at 825 Route 22 West in North Plainfield, NJ. Humans only this time, please. Call for more details: 908.822.9200
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Free Feeding Your Dog? Don't Do It.
Free feeding means allowing your dog to eat "at his leisure". The food bowl is always accessible. This practice can devalue your dog's food as well as set her up to become a finicky eater. There's another way to feed your dog that develops a healthy respect for his food and, subsequently, you as the benevolent provider!
Food is an essential resource for all of us, and a primary motivator for dogs. An always-available food bowl becomes devalued because it is, well, always available. Dogs don't need to pay attention to or comply with owners, when the most critical component of survival is accessible 24/7. Who is providing this bottomless bowl, anyway?
Decide on a good quality kibble for your dog and have a routine. Whether your dog is a puppy or adult, you can set feeding times, say, 7 AM and 6 PM, for an adult dog. At feeding time, put the ration of kibble into the bowl, call your dog to you, and ask her to "sit and wait" while you place the bowl down. Give her an "OK" release to eat. Allow 10-15 minutes for her to finish her food. (Set a timer to remind you, if necessary.) If your dog walks away from the bowl, and food remains, let him see you pick up the bowl and put it in an inaccessible place. Repeat this at the evening feeding.
If you have been practicing free feeding with your dog, you can expect him to leave food. This could continue for several days. Don't worry and revert back to an undesirable method! If you persist, your dog will change. The benefits are: an end to finicky eating and a new respect for you and the valuable resource you provide.
For more information on free feeding and other ways to motivate your dog, call Best Friends at 908.822.9200 and ask for Kimberly Mandel. All behavior and training-related questions welcome.
Food is an essential resource for all of us, and a primary motivator for dogs. An always-available food bowl becomes devalued because it is, well, always available. Dogs don't need to pay attention to or comply with owners, when the most critical component of survival is accessible 24/7. Who is providing this bottomless bowl, anyway?
Decide on a good quality kibble for your dog and have a routine. Whether your dog is a puppy or adult, you can set feeding times, say, 7 AM and 6 PM, for an adult dog. At feeding time, put the ration of kibble into the bowl, call your dog to you, and ask her to "sit and wait" while you place the bowl down. Give her an "OK" release to eat. Allow 10-15 minutes for her to finish her food. (Set a timer to remind you, if necessary.) If your dog walks away from the bowl, and food remains, let him see you pick up the bowl and put it in an inaccessible place. Repeat this at the evening feeding.
If you have been practicing free feeding with your dog, you can expect him to leave food. This could continue for several days. Don't worry and revert back to an undesirable method! If you persist, your dog will change. The benefits are: an end to finicky eating and a new respect for you and the valuable resource you provide.
For more information on free feeding and other ways to motivate your dog, call Best Friends at 908.822.9200 and ask for Kimberly Mandel. All behavior and training-related questions welcome.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Fall Puppy and Dog Training
Summer is winding down, and we all settle into a new routine. It's a great time to get your new puppy into a training class. It's a great time to take action toward improving your adult dog's housemanners and social skills. Here at Best Friends, we offer really useful training options to suit your lifestyle: classes, board and train, and private sessions in your home or here at our center.
Science-based and dog-friendly methods help owners learn to effectively communicate with their dogs to reinforce only desirable behaviors. When owners have a "canine education", frequent reprimands and frustration can stop.
Classes run in 6-week series, one hour per week. New puppy classes (ages 2 months - 11 months) are starting on Saturday, September 11th at 10 AM. New adult dog classes (6 months +) are starting on Monday, October 4th at 7 PM.
Our trainer is happy to talk to owners about training programs and options best for individual pets. General behavior questions are also welcome. Kimberly B. Mandel Trainer 908.822.9200
Science-based and dog-friendly methods help owners learn to effectively communicate with their dogs to reinforce only desirable behaviors. When owners have a "canine education", frequent reprimands and frustration can stop.
Classes run in 6-week series, one hour per week. New puppy classes (ages 2 months - 11 months) are starting on Saturday, September 11th at 10 AM. New adult dog classes (6 months +) are starting on Monday, October 4th at 7 PM.
Our trainer is happy to talk to owners about training programs and options best for individual pets. General behavior questions are also welcome. Kimberly B. Mandel Trainer 908.822.9200
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